With an increasing number of high quality shochu bottles reaching North America, this is an ideal time to learn more about Japan’s oldest distilled alcoholic beverage and best-selling spirit. You will quickly discover that the centuries of tradition have been refined to result in flavors that will be a must for your standout home bar. Whether your guests want to try compelling spirits neat, on the rocks or in cocktails, this will quickly become a go-to option.
A Quick History of Shochu
While sake is believed to have originated in Japan around 700AD, shochu has origins that came centuries later and under some unclear circumstances. According to the Sake School of America, it was by the 16th century that the spirit was being produced throughout Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s main islands.
The leading theory of how distillation arrived in the area involves what’s known as the Ryukyu Route: that some sort of alembic distillation device arrived during the 14th century in the Ryukyu Kingdom (present-day Okinawa), which was then a major trade center for China, Japan, Korea, and Southeast Asia. The distillate was originally referred to as arakishu during the Edo period (1603–1868); it is derived from the Arabic word araq, which means “droplets of sweat.” Iichiko shochu, which will be the focus of this article, debuted in 1979.
The Very Simple Difference between Shochu and Soju
Soju is a Korean spirit that is distilled multiple times, while Shochu is a Japanese spirit distilled only once. Often, distillers include a “number of sweet and sour additives into the product to help regulate the taste and make it easier to drink.” (Christopher Pellegrini, The Shochu Handbook) In comparison, Shochu is highly regulated by the Japanese government. No flavorings or additives are allowed. They both have a similar ABV.
The Very Simple Difference between Shochu and Sake
Shochu is a distilled liquor, like vodka, whiskey or rum, with each having its own unique distillation process. Sake is a brewed fermented alcohol. This leads to a difference in alcohol contents, with sake coming in around 15% because most of the fungus stops the activity and the alcohol level does not go any further. Through the distillation process, Shochu can normally be 20%-25%, reaching as high as 43%.
Let’s take a look at one example of how shochu is made.
Three Ingredients to Make Something Great
Throughout the centuries, shochu has been made from rice, potatoes, buckwheat, grains, molasses, or other ingredients heavy in starch. Its base primarily depended on the dominant agricultural product of the prefecture from which it’s sourced.
Iichiko shochu is brewed using only 3 simple all-natural ingredients. Water, koji and barley produce one of the world's purest alcoholic beverages that contain no sulfites, tannins, or additives.
It’s likely that water and barley will be familiar to you. But koji might be new; it is a sweet, fragrant mold that begins the fermentation process. To get things started, this mold will actually attach itself to the barley and release its own enzymes that will break down the starches into fermentable sugars. Once the koji is ready, water is added, and this starter material is used for fermentation.
Different types of koji are actually used for fermentation in soy sauce and miso to create their unique umami taste. Here, it produces citric acid that protects the shochu from bacteria while bringing out the barley flavors.
The Process of Distilling iichiko Shochu
Let’s focus in on iichiko for an example of the process for distilling shochu.
The Barley: Made in Oita, Japan, this shochu is crafted from 100% Two-row barley. Two-row barley has a lower protein content than six-row barley and thus has more fermentable sugar.
The Water: A natural spring is filtered through 1000 feet and 22 layers of volcanic rock. The choice of water is critically important to the development of the spirit. Just like the other ingredients, the chemical composition of the water and the environment from which it is drawn will impact the resulting purity and profile.
Brewing: iichiko brewmasters use koju in “clean lab” methods that produce 18% alcohol in the first fermentation. This has a higher alcohol content than whiskey making which would produce 8 - 10%. Once this process is completed, the “beer” is pumped into the still.
Distillation: For Honkaku Shochu like iichiko, the moromi (mash) is distilled only once in stainless steel pots to preserve the rich character of the barley. Iichiko Saiten uses atmospheric distillation (jo-atsu) that uses boiling temperatures of 185 to 203-degrees fahrenheit to allow vapors to travel through the still and cool.
How You Should Drink Your Shochu
“Versatility is a major reason why shochu is climbing the ranks. It’s an excellent aperitif but is also commonly enjoyed alongside a meal.” (Christopher Pellegrini, The Shochu Handbook). You can drink Shochu straight, on the rocks, with a couple of splashes of cool or hot water, or mixed in a cocktail.
Before taking your first sip, stare deeply into the glass and observe the purity of the liquid that has resulted from this unique fermentation process. Hold the glass up to your nose and breathe in with your mouth subtly open so you can take in the aromas. Maybe honeydew or citrus. Possible white pepper or that rich barley.
Now take a sip. What flavors come to mind as your take in this expression for the very first time? Maybe it is fruits, certain minerals, or maybe a memory that comes to mind. And then see how cooling it down brings out new vibrant flavors. Let that ice melt just a bit and take another sip to see how those flavors have changed.
2 iichiko Expressions to Try
iichiko Silhouette is the traditional expression of shochu and Japan’s #1 shochu brand. Light and eminently drinkable, Silhouette pairs well with a wide range of cuisines and is traditionally enjoyed with food at 25% ABV (alcohol by volume). Silhouette is enjoyed straight or on the rocks; served with water (both cold and hot); served in a chu-hi (or shochu highball) mixed with soda and fruit juice, or served with oolong tea or matcha tea. Silhouette can also be a versatile base for low-alcohol cocktails. We recommend trying the Grapefruit Hai, a refreshing introduction to both shochu and the ChuHai cocktail.
Iichiko Saiten, crafted specifically for the modern bartender, is a full-flavored expression of shochu that is perfect for cocktails at 43% ABV (alcohol by volume). On the nose, iichiko Saiten is redolent with aromas of honeydew melon, white grape, pickled watermelon rind and kabosu citrus. There are also hints of soy, white pepper and rich barley notes. On the palate, iichiko Saiten has a strong start and a long finish. It exudes rich umami notes of jasmine tea, white peach, minerals and earth with some citrus and a saline finish that beckons another sip. Its complex flavors offer exciting options for mixing in cocktails. Give it a try in the Citrus ChuHai or in the refreshing Seasonal Flower cocktail.
