There are very few specialty skills that can be categorized as artistic, scientific, and traditional trade. Cooperage is one of them. The work of the cooper can be found historically, with their rich history dating back to around 300BC. In the simplest terms, cooperage is barrel making, but there is a lot more to this art form and its people than that.
The Beauty of the Barrel
Barrels have become less common for the transportation of regular goods, but they are essential for Scotch whisky, and the Scotch coopers still at work are committed to their craft. Barrel making is a specialized skill that relies upon expert craftspeople. Most coopers begin as apprentices in one of Scotland’s cooperages, and after four years of training, they earn the right to call themselves a professional cooper.
Cooperage is considered a high art form and an honest craft in Scotland. The heyday of Scotch cooperage came in the 1980s with over 1000 coopers employed in Scotland. However, figures fell significantly in the early 21st century, with a low of 188 coopers working. Still, figures are starting to rise, and the latest data from the National Cooperage Federation shows over 200 coopers employed in 2018. Always considered an artisan profession, coopers are a rare breed with specialized skills necessary for the finest Scotch and other whiskies.
Beyond Craftsmanship Lays Science
Wood choice is one of the crucial factors in choosing a barrel for whisky or other spirits. Oak is universally recognized for its high quality as the alcohol content within the whisky acts as a solvent, and the oak flavor becomes part of the whisky’s complexity. Knowing which wood and barrel to use for each spirit is part of the cooper’s vast knowledge.
Some cooperages have remained in Scotland, focused on their craft. However, one company, the Speyside Cooperage, has branched out into bourbon, opening an office in Kentucky and creating exceptional quality bourbon barrels and shipping them back to Scotland for Scotch whisky. General Manager, Andrew Russell, explains: “because Kentucky bourbon law dictates that you can use a cask only once, there are an awful lot of casks out there, which is very good for Scotch whisky.” The Speyside Cooperage’s operations in Craigellachie is also one of the few cooperages you can visit and tour.
Other companies have their own unique approach to cooperage. For example, Loch Lomond Whiskies keep all their business on one site, as one of only four distilleries with a cooperage on-site and the work of their senior cooper, Tommy Wallace, renowned. Wallace also held the position of the President of the National Cooperage Federation.
Many of the recognizable names in the world of cooperage are families, who pass the skills from father to son and ensure the ancient art form doesn’t die. In 2020, the Scotch Whisky Society reported Scotch exports were worth £3.8bn. This shows the demand for quality Scotch and other spirits always remains high, so the demand for beautifully crafted barrels will too.
